I recently bought a 2010 Corolla. I've never owned a Corolla hence the possible ignorance expressed in this question! I want to start with a clean slate so I figure an oil change might be good to do. When I searched for a filter I saw both spin-on and cartridge types come up - both claiming to fit the engine. I wonder if this is true, and if so, is one type preferred over the other by the experts here, or is it more a matter of convenience? I've always used spin-ons in my other cars. Seems to me they'd be a little easier to deal with - less messy. I bought a Mobil1 "extended performance" cartridge but can return it for a spin-on if that'll work better. I also took advantage of the latest Mobil1 rebate offer to get 10 quarts of 0-20 synthetic for $45 minus $20 in rebates.
1.8L oil filter type?
- Thread starter reezekeys
- Start date
My 2013 has a cartridge and while I am not totally sure it is the same car are yours so you likely have a cartridge filter as well. if you do you can't use a spin on without buying a conversion kit. I change my own oil and have no issue with it. You will need a proper tool to fit the housing to remove and replace the filter.
Thanks a lot for the reply! None of the websites I saw mentioned needing a conversion kit - they all just listed both types of filters. And thanks to your post I now realize that my regular oil filter wrenches won't work - I need a special one that fits the canister. Here I am nearing social security age after doing my own oil changes my entire driving life and had no idea!
That is a fantastic video, thanks! One thing that stuck out was how much he tightened the canister. WIth spin-ons, I always thought you tightened between 3/4 turn and a full turn once the gasket makes contact. Most of the time I didn't even use my wrench to tighten it - my bare hands could make one turn. Given the warning about not overtightening, I guess I'll just have to feel my way through this.
One other thing made me happy - the Corolla 1.8 engine uses 4.4 quarts of oil while my old Lexus needed 5.5 - I had to buy two five-quart jugs for some oil changes – not anymore!
One other thing made me happy - the Corolla 1.8 engine uses 4.4 quarts of oil while my old Lexus needed 5.5 - I had to buy two five-quart jugs for some oil changes – not anymore!
I always buy the 5 litre jug. When I use the remaining oil I have a container that I can put the used oil in to recycle. Here they will only take non-contaminated oil in the original jug for recycling. Last week I did an oil change and I did not have to buy any oil at all, I had enough new oil on hand.
I'm not sure why, but don't all new filter cartridges come with an o-ring? Mine did. Why would you toss it and reuse the old one? That makes no sense. It's not that hard to switch them. You're gonna get your hands dirty pulling the old cartridge out of the canister anyway.
BTW I can report on my very first Corolla oil-change experience (so that makes me a newbie in a way too, at least in terms of this particular car). This was my first time with a canister-type. The cap wrench got stuck on the can, but all in all it wasn't that hard and a better experience than my previous car, a Lexus. With that one, the oil filter was in an awkward spot that made getting a wrench around it difficult, plus it faces up - so when removing, old oil spilled onto the ground and suspension parts of the car. The Corolla was easy in comparison, and the cap wrench did eventually come off when I tightened the canister.
BTW I can report on my very first Corolla oil-change experience (so that makes me a newbie in a way too, at least in terms of this particular car). This was my first time with a canister-type. The cap wrench got stuck on the can, but all in all it wasn't that hard and a better experience than my previous car, a Lexus. With that one, the oil filter was in an awkward spot that made getting a wrench around it difficult, plus it faces up - so when removing, old oil spilled onto the ground and suspension parts of the car. The Corolla was easy in comparison, and the cap wrench did eventually come off when I tightened the canister.
Hello guys,
What Charles said is correct. The O-ring needs to be change in order to prevent oil leak. Not only because the oil additives reaction to the ring can degraded with time but most important, when you tightening the cap the ring compress. The ring remain compressed until you change the oil again in (who knows how long depending on your driving habits) and the ring will not return to the original form. If you try to re-use it chances are is not going to seal properly the opening. By the way, you don't have to torque the cap that hard. The more you compress the ring the less sealing contact will have, so it will crack or deform leaving a gap for the oil to escape. PLEASE do not think of mounting one O-ring on top of the other... Sorry, just had a flashback from work, lol.
What Charles said is correct. The O-ring needs to be change in order to prevent oil leak. Not only because the oil additives reaction to the ring can degraded with time but most important, when you tightening the cap the ring compress. The ring remain compressed until you change the oil again in (who knows how long depending on your driving habits) and the ring will not return to the original form. If you try to re-use it chances are is not going to seal properly the opening. By the way, you don't have to torque the cap that hard. The more you compress the ring the less sealing contact will have, so it will crack or deform leaving a gap for the oil to escape. PLEASE do not think of mounting one O-ring on top of the other... Sorry, just had a flashback from work, lol.
to be honest. I have never changed the crush washer,, in the past it was because I never realized nor heard of it being a necessity. Presently I have not changed it because in my past experience I have never had oil leak from the drain plug, and no, I do not torque it tight or over tighten it. This being said I am considering changing it on my next change, not really sure why I am considering it but I am.