My car was starting to miss a little so I decided to change plugs and that's when all hell broke. After changing the plugs it started up fine and ran good. I tried to back it up then it ran rough and died. Since then I replace distributor, wires, fuel pump and starter all of which were bad or dying. It ran awesome so I took it for a drive and 10 miles down the road it died and wouldn't start. Towed it home, follow the repair manual to diagnose it and it comes down to igniter or computer. Spark at plugs, fuel to throttle, volt to the igniter on the two + sides. Car turns over with no promise to fire. When I release the key it makes a small popping sound with white/gray smoke coming from the throttle body. Can the igniter itself be tested? Its getting costly and I'm turning into an R&R guy. Remove and Replace and hope I changed the right part. I am no mechanic but I can read and follow the repair manual. I'm not a cash cow and don't have cash coming out of my ears either. Yikes! Any suggestions? Help!!!
1995 Toyota Corolla won't start 1.8 auto trans
- Thread starter Kika Wai'Alae
- Start date
Ok here is something that I was wrong on. I check the compression and noticed that 1 of the cylinders has a 195 compression as it did when I checked it before it stalled. The other 3 are around 20-30. I removed the cover and its clean in there's no water. The timing belt is still good and lined up at TDC. What could cause the sudden compression drop on three cylinders without warning on the freeway? It ran great then it was like the ignition was turned off.
Can you remove the oil cap when you have the gauge on a cyl that has low compression? Do you hear air leaking? Maybe I should ask if you have a gauge that hooks to a air compressor then pressurizes the cyl first lol. If you have just a gauge that measures compression when cranking then you won't be able to hear air leaking out..
Are putting some oil in the cylinders after doing a dry test? Take the plugs out and ground them to test the ignition, 125 psi is considered low for those engines. Look up a manual to see specs for compression wet and dry. A valve could have burnt up dropping compression, coolant low? I'd just buy a reman head but depending on mileage you need to ask yourself if it's worth it.
Cylinders 1, 2, & 3 went from 30 to 60 on the wet compression test. The leak down test proved that the intake valves on those three cylinders were leaking. So my guess is carbon build up on those three cylinders. Now is it a matter of refurbishing the head or is there more to that? I will start the process of removing the head for a visual inspection. Is there a place on the internet showing the removal of the heads? I searched on youtube but no luck...
